Formulasi dan Evaluasi Stabilitas Fisik, Efektivitas Anti Penuaan Kulit dari Nanokrim yang Mengandung Kombinasi Ekstrak Etanol Daun Kelor (Moringa oleifera Lam.) dan Minyak Biji Bunga Matahari (Helianthus annuus L.)

Abstract

Background: Ethanol extract of Moringa leaves (Moringa oleifera Lam.) and sunflower seed oil contain antioxidant compounds such as flavonoids and vitamin E that can prevent skin aging due to negative effects of free radicals. Nanocream is a preparation with a very small particle size that allows more effective delivery of active ingredients to skin. Objective: To formulate moringa leaf ethanol extract combined with sunflower seed oil in physically stable nanocream dosage form and determine anti aging effectiveness of combined nanocream and compared nanocream without combination. Methods: Extraction of moringa leaves by maceration method using 70% ethanol, characterization and screening of simplisia and extracts. Formulation of nanocream preparations with 30.4% Tween 80 and 10% Span 80, variations in concentration ratio of moringa leaf ethanol extract and sunflower seed oil, F1 (5%:5%), F2 (3.33%:6.66%), F3 (2.5%:7.5%), F4 (6.66%:3.33%), F5 (7.5%:2.5%), and F6 (6%:4%), nanocream without combination FE only moringa leaf extract 2.5%, FM only sunflower seed oil 7.5%. Testing cream type, homogeneity, spreadability, surface tension, particle size, cycling test, physical stability of storage for 12 weeks at various temperatures, organoleptic, pH, viscosity, centrifugation. The selected combined and uncombined nanocream formulas were tested for irritation, and anti aging activity with a skin analyzer. Results: Nanocream F1, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6, FM and FE have initial particle sizes of 435 nm, 355 nm, 223 nm, 353 nm, 379 nm, 424 nm, 233 nm and 59 nm. All nanocream formulas were light green to brownish green in color, except FM which was yellowish white, semisolid, and had a characteristic odor, cream type m/a, homogeneous, spreadability 16.6 32.0 g.cm/sec, surface tension 35.1 40.9 dyne/cm, pH 5.2 6.3, viscosity 25803.83 21807.10 cP. Results of centrifugation and cycling tests of all nanocreams had no phase separation and creaming, but there were odor changes in F5 and F6. All nanocreams were stable for 12 weeks of storage at room temperature, high temperature, and low temperature except for F6 which had odor changes after 6 weeks of room temperature and 4 weeks of high temperature storage, and F5 after 8 weeks of high temperature storage. Results of anti aging activity of F3 showed an increase in moisture content, decrease in pore size, reduction in number of blemishes, and wrinkles faster than the nanocream preparation without combination. Conclusion: Combination of moringa ethanol extract and sunflower seed oil made as an anti aging preparation was physically stable at room temperature, high temperature, and low temperature storage for 12 weeks. Anti aging activity of nanocream with combination of 2.5% moringa ethanol extract and 7.5% sunflower seed oil (F3) was better than nanocream without combination.