Formulasi dan Evaluasi Sediaan Masker Peel-Off Ekstrak Etanol Biji Buah Durian (Durio Zibethinus Murr) dengan Basis Gelatin Sisik Ikan Nila (Oreochromis Niloticus)

Abstract

Background: Durian seeds (Durio zibethinus Murr) contain secondary metabolite compounds such as alkaloids, triterpenoids, phenolics and flavonoids that have anti-aging activity. Durian seeds can be utilized in the cosmetic field, namely as an active substance in peel-off mask preparations. Peel-off masks can be formulated with PVA and gelatin bases. However, most of the gelatin on the market is still made from pig skin, causing controversy. The use of tilapia scales can be an alternative source of gelatin that is halal and safe. Objective: This study aims to formulate and test the anti-aging activity of peel-off mask preparations using ethanol extract of durian fruit seeds (Durio zibethinus Murr) with tilapia scales gelatin base. Methods: Durian seeds were extracted using maceration method with 70% ethanol. Phytochemical screening was carried out on simplisia powder and ethanol extract of durian fruit seeds. Preparation of peel-off mask preparations was carried out using 3% durian fruit seed ethanol extract with gelatin variations, namely F1 (1%), F2 (2%), and F3 (3%), while F0 was a blank with 3% gelatin without extract. Evaluation of peel-off mask preparation includes organoleptic test, homogeneity test, pH test, viscosity test, spreadability test, adhesion test, drying time test, stability test, irritation test and anti-aging activity test. Anti-aging activity testing using skin analyzer with parameters of moisture, pore size, number of blemishes and number of wrinkles. Results: The percent yield of durian fruit seed ethanol extract produced is 13,14%. Phytochemical screening of simplisia powder and ethanol extract of durian fruit seeds showed alkaloid, flavonoid, tannin, glycoside, and triterpenoid compounds. Evaluation of the peel-off mask preparation shows the color of the preparation is cloudy white to dark brown, semisolid, has a distinctive smell of durian seed extract, homogeneous, with a pH of 5,10-5,43, viscosity of 2100-2500 cps, spreadability of 5,75-6,25 cm, stickiness of 7-11 seconds, drying time range of 19-24 minutes and a stable and non-irritating preparation. Anti-aging activity at 2% gelatin concentration showed a percent moisture recovery of 35,29%, pore size of 23,08%, number of blemishes of 20,48%, and number of wrinkles of 23,23%. Conclusion: Durian fruit seed ethanol extract can be formulated in a peel-off mask preparation, in accordance with the requirements and stable in storage for 12 weeks. Variations in the concentration of tilapia fish scale gelatin (Oreochromis niloticus) affect the peel-off mask characteristics of durian fruit seed ethanol extract (Durio zibethinus Murr). The peel-off mask preparation of durian fruit seed ethanol extract with 2% gelatin concentration has anti-aging activity and good consistency compared to other preparation.